Ariel Berka

Category: Apparel

Competitions: International

The collection “First Person Feminine” was born out of a fear of control over the female body, a historical pattern that continues today. It draws from religious texts and cultural myths, where women are punished for curiosity, and from feminist theory that critiques how motherhood and reproduction are tied to female identity. By referencing the silhouettes of the 1950s an era when women were forced back into domestic roles the collection explores how femininity has been shaped by social expectations. Leather becomes both a symbol of strength and a material of constraint molded, cut, and engraved to reflect the tension between self-expression and imposed identity. Crafted entirely from vegetable-tanned leather, The Idol is a sculptural piece that examines the control of the female body through the lens of idealized beauty. Inspired by the tension between visibility and restriction, the garment was molded by hand on the body, using heat and moisture to shape the leather into a rigid silhouette that echoes both armor and imprisonment. The leather was naturally tanned and then hand-dyed in a visceral shade of blood red a color chosen to evoke the physical and emotional cost of being objectified. Silver 925 seams seal the piece shut at the back, reinforcing a sense of finality and confinement. The sculpted leather bodice is reinforced with prominent silver structures that wrap around the bust and arms, evoking the rigid underwires of a bra. These metallic lines do not merely support the body they contain it, referencing both the physical constraints of lingerie and the symbolic confinement of femininity. Like the traditional bra, these elements shape, lift, and restrict, turning an intimate garment into a visible, almost architectural device of control. The lifted leather straps suggest a body hung for display, referencing how women have historically been reduced to their appearance. This piece embodies the clash between societal ideals and female autonomy, using leather not only for its strength and beauty, but as a symbol of power, vulnerability, and resistance.

Category: Apparel

Competitions: International

The inspiration for my collection started from the mechanism of the lock and key and its deep metaphorical significance. Historically, women's bodies have often been symbolized as locks waiting for the right key, a concept that has been exemplified by the form of the chastity belt. This device transformed the original, romantic meaning of locks and keys—love and compatibility—into symbols of control and possession. From the era of the chastity belt to today's societal norms, women have consistently been subjected to societal expectations, leading to a loss of personal autonomy. Exploring the historical context, the lock and key symbolism has varied across cultures but often carried the same underlying message of control. In contemporary times, although physical devices are no longer used to control women, the idea persists. Modern modesty standards force women to juggle societal desires, often stripping them of the freedom to choose what to conceal and what to reveal. This project examines our relationship with personal choice, navigating the delicate balance between self-expression and societal approval. It raises crucial questions about the extent of control we truly have over our bodies and will. Through my collection, I aim to challenge these controls and empower women, promoting a message of autonomy and self-expression. The garment is crafted from sheep leather with a luxurious silk lining and hand made 925 silver hardware. Each piece was handmade by me, with the invaluable assistance of jewelry designer Ori Tamir, known for his expertise in silver craftsmanship. Ori's insights and craftsmanship have significantly enriched this project and helped me customize a very common leather hardwear concept to the full extent of the lock and key inspiration with the padlock belt buckle, silver locks, custom made distressed zippers and handbag key buckle. Sustainability and ecological responsibility are at the heart of this collection. In many of my projects, I emphasize the use of genuine leather over faux leather for several ecological and sustainable reasons. Genuine leather, when sourced responsibly, offers longevity and high quality that faux leather cannot match. Faux leather is typically made from plastics, which contribute to environmental pollution and do not biodegrade. In contrast, genuine leather is a natural material that, with proper care, can last for decades, reducing the frequency of disposal and promoting a culture of durability and sustainability. By choosing high-quality, durable materials, i aim to create pieces that not only make a statement but also stand the test of time. This approach not only reduces the frequency of disposal and replacement but also encourages a culture of mindful consumption and appreciation for craftsmanship. The 925 silver hardware not only adds a touch of elegance but also aligns with our commitment to sustainability. Silver is a durable, recyclable material that can be reused and repurposed, reducing the need for new raw materials and lessening the environmental impact.