《戏裳提线》《Threaded Opera Robes》
Category: Apparel
Competitions: China Mainland
以武将、花旦、神将等木偶形象为核心视觉来源：木偶服饰层叠云肩、戎装铠甲分割、垂坠飘带、提线绑缚结构，全部转化为本款长款真皮大衣的设计语言。大衣肩部拼接异形撞色真皮裁片，复刻木偶戏服云肩层叠形态；衣摆阶梯式镂空分割、侧边垂坠红绳提线装饰，直接还原木偶身上提线操控、戏服下摆开衩结构；衣身局部印花纹样提取木偶衣袍传统花卉、回纹纹样，将传统戏曲装饰转化为真皮成衣视觉细节。木偶木雕底座的榫卯几何结构，化作衣身口袋方正轮廓、裁片阶梯拼接线条，强化地域非遗辨识度。橙、红、蓝、绿彩色皮革面料样本，确立真皮为本系列核心载体。用头层真皮挺括立体的塑形能力，复刻木偶武将戎装硬挺廓形，替代传统织锦绸缎；同时结合轻户外需求，搭配针织、透气梭织面料做分层内搭，中和真皮僵硬厚重的短板，兼顾秋冬防风耐磨机能与穿搭松弛感。将木偶戏服华丽撞色镶边工艺，转化为多色真皮拼接设计，用不同色彩真皮裁片模拟戏服镶金嵌彩的视觉层次。 Taking warrior, young female opera role, deity general puppet figures as core visual sources: layered cloud shoulder capes, segmented warrior armor, flowing ribbons and string-binding structures of puppet costumes are all translated into the design language of this long leather overcoat. Irregular color-block leather panels are spliced on the coat’s shoulders to recreate the layered silhouette of cloud shoulder capes on puppet opera costumes. Step-shaped hollow segmentation is adopted at the coat hem, with dangling red puppet strings decorating the sides, directly reproducing the string-control structure and hem slits of traditional puppet robes. Partial printed patterns on the garment are extracted from classic floral and interlocking geometric motifs of puppet costumes, converting traditional opera ornaments into visual details of the genuine leather outerwear. The mortise-and-tenon geometric structure of wooden puppet bases is reinterpreted as the square outline of garment pockets and stepped splicing lines of cut pieces, strengthening the regional intangible cultural heritage identity. Leather swatches in orange, red, blue and green confirm genuine leather as the core carrier of this collection. The rigid, shaping property of top-grain cowhide is utilized to reconstruct the stiff silhouette of warrior puppet armors, replacing traditional brocade satin. Meanwhile, cable knit and breathable woven fabrics are matched as layered inner layers to meet light outdoor demands, offsetting the stiffness and heaviness of leather. The design balances windproof, wear-resistant functionality for autumn and winter with a relaxed wearing experience. The elaborate color-trim craftsmanship of puppet costumes is transformed into multi-tonal leather splicing. Leather panels of varying hues mimic the layered visual effect of gold and colorful inlays on traditional opera robes.
