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Mary Jane Aoun

London College of Fashion

Footwear & Accessory Design BFA

Bags, Accessories, Eyewear

Daughter of Fadia Litany who made London her home in 1992, I found myself entangled in the common diaspora dilemma, navigating a profound sense of being too Arab in the West yet too Western in Lebanon. With skilful navigation through the complexities of my dual cultural identity, I not only sidestepped the burden it could have brought but also actively chose to embrace the inherent beauty found in both facets. While embarking on a design internship at two of Lebanon’s foremost haute couture fashion houses, I was taken aback by the environmental repercussions stemming from the excessive beading on a dress meant for a singular wearing. Realising that such beauty could contribute to significant ecological damage left me profoundly dismayed. Which led to the experimentation of creating biomaterial-based sustainable beads. Strong in my beliefs, I melded my understanding of the intricate identity that accompanies being a cross-cultural child alongside having a keen awareness of witnessing the environmental impact and occasional unethical practices within the fashion industry; I dedicated myself to crafting a catalyst for positive change- one that not only nurtures the beauty of haute couture but also fosters environmental well-being At the soul of Beit Litany, where the eloquence of ‘House of Litany’ graces its Arabic lineage, a subtle rebellion unfurls against the conventions of high-end fashion. Derived from the founder’s mother’s maiden name, Litany, the brand deftly opts for the Lebanese ‘Beit’ in lieu of the customary ‘Maison,’ artfully challenging norms while embracing its cultural essence. This choice not only breathes life into a distinctive identity but also serves as a poignant commentary on the Western tapestry of fashion. Drawing inspiration from a personal odyssey navigating the negative orientalist lens cast upon the Middle East, Beit’s litany emerges as more than a mere fusion of art and fashion- it’s a powerful assertion. Here, modern Arab women find a canvas to express their identity with an audacious blend of modesty and modernity Immersed in the opulent tapestry of Arab culture, Beit Litany graciously acknowledges its kaleidoscopic essence. From the majestic pillars of Baalbek to the intricate tales woven into Arab Carpets and the graceful dance of Calligraphy, the brand draws inspiration with unwavering authenticity. This deliberate approach signifies a profound respect for the culture, avoiding the pitfalls of appropriation and casting these elements in a positive light.

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Crafting Duality: Sustainable Couture and Cultural Identity in a Modern Arab Context

Category: Accessories

Competitions: International

As a second-generation immigrant, I was compelled to explore the common diaspora dilemma of navigating the complex balance between feeling too Arab in the Western world and too Western in my homeland of Lebanon. Delving into essay-based classes in both CCI and CYP, I explored the profound effects of a cross-cultural identity and grappled with the impact of orientalism on the perception of Arab women's sexuality. Through these academic explorations, I gained a deep understanding of the intricacies surrounding this topic. Armed with this knowledge, I learned to navigate the complexities of a dual Western/Arab cultural identity, embracing both facets and incorporating their inherent beauty into my creative works.   Thanks to the confidence cultivated at LCF, I secured three internships, including one at Egypt's leading Leather design studio and two at Haute couture houses in Lebanon, namely Tony Ward and Jean Fares Couture. Throughout these internships, I exhibited a high calibre of work and demonstrated the diverse range of skills learnt at LCF. My understanding of design, extending beyond superficial aesthetics, proved invaluable. As a result, all three companies entrusted me with prominent roles in their design departments, allowing me to contribute significantly to the development of their fall/winter collections.   LCF's emphasis on sustainability prompted me to confront the environmental ramifications inherent in the couture and leather industries, such as the excessive use of beading on couture garments intended for single wear. Bolstered by my convictions, I integrated my understanding of the nuanced identity of being a cross-cultural individual with a keen awareness of the environmental impact and occasional unethical practices prevalent in the fashion industry. This fusion of insights inspired me to dedicate my final collection to serving as a catalyst for positive change, prioritising environmental well-being in haute couture. my project has allowed me to identify a niche clientele that requires acknowledgement, recognition, and exploration. Central to my academic pursuits is a commitment to reshaping the narrative surrounding the Middle East, moving beyond Western orientalism, and investing in building a sustainable future while preserving and revitalising ancient cultures and rich traditions. Authenticity serves as the cornerstone of my work, challenging norms by crafting wearable art heavily influenced by Arab culture and promoting cultural representation and sustainability in the fashion industry.   My work transcends the boundaries of mere fusion between art and fashion; it is a bold repudiation of the negative orientalist perceptions often imposed upon the Middle East. Serving as a canvas for modern Arab women, my creations and the brand I am establishing allow them to express their identity through a confident blend of modesty and modernity. Immersed in the rich tapestry of Arab culture, I draw inspiration authentically, sidestepping appropriation pitfalls and portraying cultural elements positively. My dedication extends to sustainability, marrying luxury with conscious material choices, ensuring that my creations are marvels without environmental compromise.   Furthermore, I take pride in positioning my work as one of the pioneering Arab couture-based designers committed to implementing 100% sustainable beading. This addresses a prevalent issue in the couture industry, where the current use of non-biodegradable materials in traditional couture beading has contributed to severe environmental concerns. By championing sustainable practices, I aim to set a precedent for responsible craftsmanship and environmental stewardship within the industry.   A key aspect of my project and brand's unique selling proposition is the creation of sustainable bio-material-based beads. To achieve this, I opted for a more intricate approach that would yield a more substantial overall impact.   In the production of my bio-beads, natural resources such as eggshell powder and fruit-derived pigments are essential. Instead of sourcing these materials from large corporations, I made a conscious decision to invest in my cultural heritage. The natural resources used in my bio-beads are meticulously gathered from the small Bekaa village where I hail from. By collecting eggshells from local bakeries and purchasing fruits directly from local farmers, I not only ensure the authenticity of my materials but also contribute to supporting a community facing significant economic challenges.   Despite the challenges posed by the tensions of war in Lebanon, which nearly hindered my access to natural materials and leather, I persisted in finding a way to source these resources from my homeland rather than opting for easier alternatives. This demonstrates my unwavering dedication not only to my craft but also to supporting the community that nurtured me.

In association with Arts Thread

Working with our partners at Arts Thread to develop lifelong learning and career opportunities for students of fashion and design. Our partnership provides the opportunity to compete on a world stage, participate in industry led workshops, set up an outstanding portfolio and gain access to the resources that will kickstart careers in fashion and design.