远游 Wandering Beyond
Category: Apparel
Competitions: China Mainland
《远游》的灵感来自我在父亲重病陪护期间的一段经历。那段日子里，我对生命与死亡之间的状态反复体察——那种尚未真正离开、却又不完全属于现实的存在感——让我联想到敦煌壁画中的青鸟与九色鹿。在这件作品中，青鸟与九色鹿被重新界定为“生死阈限的双生信使”：青鸟指向信息的传递与能量的流动，九色鹿指向慈悲、见证与救赎，二者一同连接着生与死、现实与精神两个世界。因此，我的设计主要围绕神鹿与青鸟出现最多的莫高窟第257窟展开。 作品同时吸纳了《楚辞·远游》的哲学意味，借服装传递对生命旅程的思考。整体廓形提取了敦煌莫高窟第257窟与第003窟的服饰特征，将壁画中的古朴造型与现代服装相结合。图案设计取材自第257窟的青鸟、九色鹿及壁画边饰等纹样，经重新组合后形成具有现代感的视觉语言。色彩取自莫高窟壁画中的土红、石青、石绿等色调。 工艺上，我采用了激光镂空与贴布绣结合的可逆设计，使服装可以正反穿戴。同一图案通过一次切割，在正反两面产生不同的装饰效果。同时利用废旧皮革制作流苏和装饰细节，以减少材料消耗，贯穿可持续设计的理念。面料依旧选用牛皮，以此回应本次大赛的宗旨。我借由《远游》，希望传达对生命、离别与精神归属的思考。 Wandering Beyond draws on my personal experience while caring for my seriously ill father. In those days, my prolonged reflection upon the state between life and death—a presence that has not truly left, yet no longer fully belongs to the tangible world—evoked the azure bird and the nine-colored deer from the Dunhuang murals. In this work, the azure bird and the nine-colored deer are redefined as “twin messengers at the threshold between life and death”: the azure bird suggests the transmission of messages and the flow of energy, while the nine-colored deer suggests compassion, witness, and redemption. Together they bridge the worlds of life and death, the real and the spiritual. My design is therefore centered around Mogao Cave 257, where these two sacred figures appear most frequently. The work also absorbs the philosophical tone of the poem “Wandering Beyond” (Yuan You) from the Chu Ci, using garments to convey a reflection on life’s journey. The silhouettes draw on costume features from Mogao Caves 257 and 003, merging the archaic forms of the murals with contemporary clothing. Pattern designs are taken from the azure bird, the nine-colored deer, and border motifs in Cave 257, then recombined into a modern visual language. The color palette comes from the mural pigments—earth red, azurite blue, malachite green, among others. In terms of craftsmanship, I employed a reversible design combining laser cutting and appliqué embroidery, allowing the garment to be worn on both sides. A single laser cut produces different decorative effects on the front and reverse of the same pattern. Recycled leather scraps are used to make fringes and decorative details, reducing material waste and embodying a sustainable approach. The primary material remains cowhide leather, in line with the competition’s mission. Through Wandering Beyond, I seek to express meditations on life, parting, and spiritual belonging.
