Using the Tools of My Enemies
Category: Apparel
Competitions: International
In this project I have explored how machines were developed to offer power in a world of uncertainty. Rather than utilizing machines to build, these tools have been repetitively used to oppress. I have researched how machinery reinforces mechanisms of power. My historical research has focused on Feudal systems and World War II military operations, juxtaposed with the evolution of Queer culture. I believe queer communities can repurpose machinery in ways that benefit one's self – using the tools of our enemies to uplift rather than dominate. The jacket I have created is constructed from scrap leather, transforming discarded materials into a durable and resilient surface while maintaining an environmentally conscious approach to design. The piece repurposes existing materials rather than contributing to further waste. The use of scrap leather carries a deeper symbolic meaning, representing the strength of a community and the way individuals come together to protect and uplift one another. Each fragment functions as part of a larger system, mechanically interlocking to create a unified structure—an expression of collective resilience and the power found in working together. The jacket incorporates mechanical slashes at the elbow joints, designed to enhance mobility and allow the body to move freely. I wanted the garment to challenge the idea that protective clothing must be restrictive. The downward-reaching elements of the jacket further reinforce its symbolism, drawing toward the ground as a representation of stability and strength. Like a screw extending deep into the ground, these forms create a sense of permanence and connection, symbolizing an unshakable foundation built to withstand pressure and endure. The production of this piece began with taking large pattern piece and working downward towards a micro level. Because I was working with small scraps, I had to figure out a way to build larger pieces that could be sewn together. I took my pattern pieces and carefully placed contour lines that reflect machinery and armor. Using those designs I hand cut the leather scraps into the exact shape needed with additional 1/8” overlap and sewed them together. Once the pattern pieces were created the general steps of constructing a jacket applied. After completing the jacket, I refined the surface treatment to create a more unified appearance. The leather was dyed darker to establish a worn, rustic quality, then layered with silver leather paint to reinforce the connection to machinery, metal, and industrial forms. At the same time, the reflective silver elements reference the bold visibility often associated with queer fashion and self-expression. This piece functions as both physical protection and symbolic armor. Like a peacock displaying its feathers, the jacket uses an exaggerated visual presence as a form of defense. Warding off attackers with an extensive display of confidence.
