Profile: Matthew Tompkins – Real Leather Design Competitions

Matthew Tompkins

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Matt Tompkins is a contemporary menswear designer whose work blends traditional tailoring with unisex fashion to challenge outdated perceptions of gender. His design philosophy explores how clothing shapes our understanding of masculinity, and his latest collection, Wildest, pushes this exploration further by merging historical references with a modern, gender-inclusive perspective. Wildest is inspired by the American Wild West, a period rich with contradictions—where cross-dressing, though socially frowned upon, often emerged out of necessity or defiance. One of Tompkins’ key inspirations is Calamity Jane, a frontier figure who defied gender norms by wearing men’s clothing. Her story serves as a launching point for Tompkins to examine how clothing not only influences personal identity but also affects social perception and treatment. In this collection, every piece is intentionally genderless—crafted to accommodate a wide range of body types without conforming to binary silhouettes. Tompkins rejects the notion that clothing must be limited by gender, offering designs that invite freedom of expression. To preserve a connection to the past, he uses period-authentic fabrics, lending the collection historical weight while anchoring its modern message. Through Wildest, Tompkins encourages a rethinking of fashion’s role in reinforcing or challenging societal norms. His garments become a form of cultural commentary, questioning who gets to wear what and why. In doing so, he contributes to the broader movement toward inclusivity, where clothing becomes a tool for self-expression—unrestricted by gender labels.

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Wildest Leather poncho

Category: Apparel

Competitions: International

Wildest is a conceptual fashion collection that challenges traditional perceptions of gender in clothing, with a focus on how garments influence and define masculinity. Inspired by the American Wild West—an era often idealized for its rugged individualism and frontier spirit—the collection draws from the lesser-known history of cross-dressing during this time. Figures like Calamity Jane, who used clothing to defy gender norms and influence how she was perceived and treated, serve as a key reference point. At its core, Wildest seeks to blur the lines between male and female dress codes. Each piece is designed to be genderless and adaptable to various body types, aiming to dismantle the long-standing stigma around who is “allowed” to wear what. The designer hopes to contribute to a broader shift in thinking—one that sees clothing as a form of personal expression, not limited by gender. Historical authenticity plays a significant role in the collection. Materials were carefully selected to reflect what would have been available during the 19th-century American frontier, grounding the concept in a rich cultural and visual narrative. Despite this historical lens, the message is decidedly modern: inclusivity, self-expression, and the redefinition of gender norms through fashion. Ultimately, Wildest is more than just a collection—it’s a statement. It invites viewers and wearers alike to question societal expectations and explore a more fluid, open approach to identity. Through design, it challenges the boundaries of tradition and envisions a more inclusive future.