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Zirui Xue

RMIT University Melbourne

My name is Zirui Xue, and I am a fashion designer with a strong focus on menswear. My practice is built around pattern making, garment construction and sewing techniques. Through my studies and personal projects, I have developed solid experience in creating garments from initial research and design development to pattern cutting, fitting and final construction. In my work, I am interested in the structure and language of menswear. I often use traditional menswear as a starting point, but I do not want to simply repeat existing rules. Instead, I try to question and challenge familiar conventions, such as how menswear should look, how it should be constructed, and what kinds of details or materials can belong to it. Craftsmanship is also very important in my design practice. I pay attention to accurate patterns, clean finishing and the relationship between fabric, body and structure. At the same time, I want my garments to remain wearable and connected to real life. For me, fashion design is a way to create new possibilities. By reworking familiar forms and techniques, I hope to bring a different perspective to contemporary menswear.

After Armour

Category: Accessories

Competitions: International

This accessory explores how an extreme protective system can be stripped of its original function and reworked into a decorative menswear object. My starting point was body armour, especially the neck guard and arm guard, which are designed to protect, cover and restrict the body. I was interested in taking this highly functional language and reducing its practical purpose, so that it could become a visual and decorative layer instead. The final design is a leather accessory worn around the neck and upper body. It keeps the memory of protective equipment, but it no longer works as real protection. Instead of using thick padding or synthetic military fabrics, I used leather to create a more crafted and long-lasting object. The shape is made flatter and softer, allowing it to sit closer to the body like an accessory rather than armour. I also combined this protective language with details from modern bags, such as zippers, handles and detachable small pouches. However, these details are also partly de-functionalised. They do not mainly exist for storage or carrying, but as signs of function. In this way, the piece sits between protective equipment, leather accessory and body decoration. As a decorative piece, it can also be integrated with garments and become part of the overall styling, rather than existing as a separate object. The work also responds to fast fashion by focusing on durability and long-term value. Rather than creating a short-life trend item, I used careful construction, hand stitching, machine stitching and edge finishing. Compared with many military and streetwear items that rely on synthetic materials such as nylon and polyester, this piece uses leather as a slower and more durable material choice. My aim is to create a menswear accessory with both conceptual value and lasting physical value.

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