革承满韵Leathercraft Inherits Manchu Rhyme
Category: Apparel
Competitions: China Mainland
Upon chancing upon the Qing Dynasty Manchu "Batulu waistcoat," the tough leather silhouette and the agile functionality of Manchu equestrian attire instantly struck me—tradition should not be a museum specimen, but a "living gene" waiting to be decoded. This inspired my research into Manchu costumes: deconstructing the ordered rhythm of the thirteen frog buttons on the "Thirteen Taibao" vest, the melodic beauty of horse-face skirt pleats, and exploring the Oriental aesthetic logic embedded in "waist-tightening and tassels".I preserved the functional silhouette of the "Thirteen Taibao" vest, replacing traditional frog buttons with a modern waistband without compromising the one-character placket's overall outline. By extracting the pleating language of horse-face skirts and grafting it onto the leather waistband, historical aesthetics merge with daily wear. The "pleat-pressing" technique breaks leather's "sturdy" stereotype, echoing the ethereal agility of horse-face skirts and allowing the material to convey Manchu clothing rhythms. Traditional leather carving reproduces Manchu cloud patterns on the leather surface, enabling the tough material to carry the delicacy of traditional motifs. In my design, the "essence" of Manchu clothing (waist-contracting silhouette, button order) coexists with leather's "newness" (waterproof, wear-resistant, textural breakthroughs), while the material's functional advantages—waterproof and abrasion-resistant—echo the practical genes of Manchu equestrian attire.The tassels at the hem echo the dynamic charm of Manchu jackets, reimagined with sleeker lengths and arrangements for modern wear rhythms.The structured design of the standing collar and waistband subtly aligns with the cultural core of Manchu clothing—emphasizing ritual and order.
