Act One: Quicker to Paradise

Category: Apparel

Using the Norse mythological tale of the Valkyries as my starting point because of its unique female perspective, I have created a collection that is inspired by these otherworldly beings and reflects the multifaceted nature of the female experience. In designing modern-day battle wear for women, I researched the history of battle wear - namely breastplates used to shield vital organs in battle. Historically crafted from leather, these pieces provided both protection and mobility. By combining this aesthetic with contemporary fashion, I created upper-body garments and tailored jackets that incorporate rawhide edges, blending traditional craftsmanship with the elegant lines of a modern suit. My research into Valkyries led me to Richard Wagner's significant opera, "The Ring" (1886). The designs are inspired by the emotions I felt while listening to the opera, such as desire, deceit, malice, envy and devotion. Each garment reflects strength and transformation, resonating with the Valkyries' mythical role as powerful warriors and guardians of destiny in this tale. My interest in the meaning of colour led me to the publication "Thought-Forms: A Record of Clairvoyant Investigation" by activist Annie Besant (1847-1933). This work explores the idea that thoughts and emotions can manifest as visible forms and colours in the human aura, presenting a visual representation of the inner emotional and mental state. The book includes detailed illustrations and a color chart, depicting how specific feelings are associated with certain colours. Using this chart, I drew parallels to the emotions evoked during the opera, with each look featuring a single, uniform colour with varying hues to reflect the corresponding emotional experience. This approach allowed me to visually convey the emotional landscape of the performance through careful selection and application of colour. The embroidery on the garments depicts Valentina, the heroine from Guido Crepax's earlier comics. Referencing a battle scene between Valentina and winged demons the embroidery uses a satin stitch to convey movement and intensity. Inspired by Artemisia Gentileschi's chiaroscuro, the embroidery uses contrasting shades to emphasise light and shadow, adding depth to the narrative pictured. The garments are imbued with a sense of heroin struggle and empowerment, reflecting the resilience embodied by both Valentina and Artemisia Gentileschi's subjects. For the finishings of the garment, I have stitched on hand-made military-style buttons, each one crafted to convey a sense of preciousness and authority. To deepen the narrative of femininity and strength, I've polished the leather with makeup, creating a mesmerising iridescence that subtly shifts with light and movement. This technique not only enhances the tactile appeal of the garments but also symbolises the multifaceted nature of the female experience - blending resilience with elegance in every detail.